Having toiled in the sublimely scented, aromatically overachieving
fields of malvasia bianca for lo these many years, we feel that we have,
at last, little Malvasia's number. The '97 is a subtle stylistic departure
from Malvasias of vintages past - the grapes were slightly riper at harvest
and the yield was atypically modest.
There seems to be more concentration, both aromatically and texturally than
in Malvasias past. This is a wine that continues to shriek out for all
manner of crustaceous fare - scampi, calamari fritti, smoked fish. The
nose of this still absolutely crisp, bone-dry beauty still cries out in a plaintive
voice, "Lichee, lichee, lichee."